
When I was an intern at Vogue, whilst studying for a Masters at Central Saint Martins, the big feat was to be seconded to a shoot. It didn’t matter if you spent the duration chained to a steamer dissolving creases from a rail of silk camisoles that would never be worn; to exclaim: ‘I’m on a shoot’ to fellow interns or non-fashion folk meant that in this tricky, hierarchical and sadly prejudicial world, you counted.
As the shoots became more regular, and I graduated from steaming to styling, the reality of lugging huge trunks from office to studio and the long days on your feet to perfect a mere half dozen shots lost a little of its allure. But because these days my work is mainly desk-bound, the odd shoot I get to attend still has novelty appeal.
MARYLING is a luxury fashion label, founded in Italy but with a strong following in Asia where they have fifteen stores in high end malls alongside labels such as Prada and Chanel, but with a refreshingly affordable price point. Last month they shot their A/W collection for 2012-13 with a handful of London creatives including the stylist Kate Ruth, make-up artist Nicky Weir (above), and photographer Matthew Shave.
MARYLING’s creative director is Avsh Alom Gur, the London based fashion creator who has devised concepts for product lines for luxury fashion houses that include Chloe, Donna Karan, Nicole Fahri and Ossie Clark. Gur is renowned for beautifully crafted clothing that regularly fuses elements of tradition and modernity. The collection for A/W 2012 is peppered with textural contrasts, so you’ll find tailored Italian wool cashmere alongside more experimental materials, like the wittily entitled knitted disco filmstrip fabric.
Kate Ruth, whose portfolio ranges from style publications including Oyster and Karen Magazine to ad campaigns for Selfridges, Channel 4 and Kate Spade, explained her point of inspiration for the shoot: ‘The pieces that stood our for me were the great coats with their focus on oversized tailoring and sleek silhouettes. I wanted to portray a strong woman with a Seventies feel and a punk edge’. For make-up artist Nicky Weir, it was about creating a ‘rock bird – a glamazonian woman. I kept her skin fresh and flawless, with a groomed brow and a punk-shaped eye. Her lips were matt to keep the shape pronounced, precise and strong’.
MARYLING is a brand that is big on what it describes as affordable luxury. If the fabrics are experimental, then the designs sit comfortably on the wearable side of the fashion equation. Their signature pieces include a transparent chiffon trench that evolves with the changing seasons and a great line in city shorts that the Vogue girls have fallen for. Aptly for 2012 these have sports luxe appeal – perfect work to evening wear for a nation in the throws of Olympic fever.
These behind-the-scenes images were taken by the talented photographer Lydia Goldblatt. You can read more about her recent work here.
To view the current collection, visit www.maryling.com
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